Tuesday, 19 May 2020

[Souvenir advice] Japanese calligraphy cards of temples and shrines: Goshuin(御朱印)

Seisokuji 栖足寺
This blog is my photo gallery that shows the photos I shot while travelling around Japan, and I often visit temples and shrines for not only taking photos but receiving a calligraphy cards of each temple or shrine called "Goshuin(御朱印)". Recently almost all temples and shrines are providing us their Goshuin with beautiful writings, stamps or even religious pictures! 

Goshuin has a religious meaning, but at the same time, I believe it should be a good souvenir or gift when you travel around Japanese temples and shrines. Therefore this page will briefly introduce you the origin and meaning of Goshuin and how you can get them with some simple conversation samples and my photos of Goshuin and temples/shrines.

Goshuin Album

Japanese calligraphy cards: Goshuin

~Index~

1. What is Goshuin?

Heart Sutra (Japanese)
Originally, Goshuin is a proof of Buddhism pilgrimage. When a pilgrim visit a temple, s/he writes a copy of Heart Sutra (wiki) and offer it to the temple. The temple monk, in return, gives the pilgrim a piece of paper with a name of the temple. At the funeral of the pilgrim, the paper is also put in their coffin and sent to a crematory. Buddha will find the prayer of the pilgrims and guide them to heaven.

Goshuin card
Nowadays, there is no need to offer the Heart Sutra to get the Goshuin (it is still required in some temples), and you can even recieve Goshuin at shrines of Shinto-ism. It only costs 300 Yen or 500 Yen /card. Each temple and shrine has their own Goshuin books as the photo above, and you can ask the monks to write it on the book (there are some rules. I will explain them later).

2. What is written on Goshuin?

Jishoji 慈照寺Goshuin explanation
The contents of the Goshuin are simple and no difference between temples and shrines, prayer word, date, name of temle/shrine, and stamp. the photos above are the Goshuin at Jishoji-temple(慈照寺)aka Ginkaku(銀閣)in Kyoto and its English translation provided by the temple. Jishoji-temple is very huge, and several buildings (pavilions) there have their own Goshuin. This is a Goshuin of the main building. I usually receive the main ones only.

Colourful Goshuin
Goshuin of temples are like strict and solemn. On the other hand, Goshuin of shrines tends to be simple but artistic. Some shrines provides the seasonal, monthly or Shinto-ism holiday Goshuin with different colours or designs.  Buddhism and Shinto-ism are totally different religions, so the idea for the Goshuin should be different, too.

Hozoji 宝蔵寺
However, some temples also provide artistic Goshuin. This weird Goshuin is from Hozo-ji temple(宝蔵寺)in Kyoto, and you can choose from many colours of Goshuin. Actually, this temple is a family temple of Jakuchu Ito(伊藤若冲 1716-1800) who was a painter of weird pictures like this Goshuin.

3. Rules of Goshuin

Size of Goshuin
Lengthy explanation is over. Then let's see how you can receive the Goshuin at temples and shrines. There are some simple but strict rules when you receive the Goshuin.
  1. Use separated Goshuin books between temple and shrine.
As I said, Buddhism of temples and Shinto-ism of shrines are totally different religions. Therefore, if you collect the Goshuin on Goshuin books, the books need to be separated. If not, monks often refuse to provide you the Goshuin. I am using two books with different sizes. Large one is for temples, and small one is for shrines.
  1. Be peaceful and patient (Zen mind!)
There are no monks who is working only for Goshuin. If they are busy for their daily jobs, do not force them to provide Goshuin. Also, most of temples and shrines are closed at 5 pm. You should not visit them later than that for Goshuin.
  1. Use Goshuin book, not your own notebooks.
Goshuin books
Temples and shrines often complain that "Goshuin is not a commemoration stamp" as it has a religious background. If you do not have your Goshuin books, temples and shrines also provides us the Goshuin on a piece of paper. 
  1. When you receive Goshuin by card, DO NOT BEND IT!!
This would rather be a manner in Japan, but bending a card with names or messages are unbelievably impolite in Japan. Goshuin is a religious item, so bending it is much more impolite than doing it to business cards.
Cut Goshuin
However, if the card is big, you can cut the edge of the card. If I receive the card that is bigger than my Goshuin book, I cut it and glue it on the book. 

There should be more small rules, but I think these are the basic ones. "Zen mind" is the most important!!

4. How can you receive Goshuin?

Kyoto_31Dec2019_002
If you can read Japanese (or Chinese characters), find 「御朱印」words on board. Almost all temples and shrines providing Goshuin show the words somewhere you can receive it. If you cannot read Japanese, do not worry. Many Japanese tourists are also making a queue on a booth for Goshuin with their Goshuin book in their hand in famous temples and shrines.

If you cannot find the queue, find a booth selling charms or religious items in the temples or shrines. Monks are working there, so you can ask where you can receive the Goshuin. In most of times, Goshuin is also provided in the same booth.

Hiroshima_miyajima_28Dec18_0005
If you are not able to find whether you are visiting a temple or a shrine, find a main gate of the place first. If the gate is like the photo above made of wood or stone, it is a shrine (usually not so large as this photo!). The gate is called "Torii(鳥居)", which is a gate to a Shinto-ism's divine place.

Welcome back
Or most of temples have Buddha statues outside or in a building while shrines do not. 

If you are not a fluent Japanese speaker, here are some simplified phrases to receive Goshuin. 

-Conversation when you receive Goshuin on cards-
You: Goshuin, kami de kudasai (Goshuin on a card, please, 御朱印、紙でください。)
Monk: Sanbyaku yen/Gohyaku yen oosame kudasai (please offer us 300 Yen/500 yen、300円/500円、お納めください)
You: Arigato (Thank you、ありがとう)

-Conversation when you receive Goshuin on your Goshuin book-
You: (Pointing a page of Goshuin book) Goshuin, kokoni kudasai (Goshuin on this page, please, 御朱印、ここにください。
Monk: Sanbyaku yen/Gohyaku yenoosame kudasai (please offer us 300 Yen/500 yen、300円/500円、お納めください)
You: Arigato (Thank you、ありがとう)

Note, some temples and shrines provide us several patterns of Goshuin. I recommend you to find you favourite one or choose the first one on the list, which should be a main Goshuin of the place.

Timing of paying money depends on the temples and the shrines. Some request before Goshuin, and others do after. Monks in big temples or shrines sometimes hand you a number card. You can visit around the place first and exchange it to your Goshuin when you leave there.

Some temples and shrines do not indicate the price of Goshuin to us by saying "Okimochi dake ("with you mind" literally).  This does not mean it is free of charge! I often pay 300 yen in this case. If I do not have coins, I pass a note of 1,000 yen and say "300 yen(Sanbyaku-yen)".

5. Where is the place to visit?

Solemn morning
I've got tremendous number of temples and shrines to recommend you around Kyoto or Tokyo. I have summarised some of my travels on this photo gallery as below. I am appreciated if you check the page and find your next place!!

6. Reference

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